Friday, April 27, 2007

Discovering Raffles

OK so now I ventured forth again ( only across to the next block and there came to the legendary Raffles Hotel. Although it takes up a whole city block it looks dwarfed by all the uglier modern buildings but still a resplendent anachronism that knows its worth.



I walked straight in and just sat in the foyer. so here I am now 8.40 in the morning and surrounded by white ornate plaster and carved dark wood where the brass fittings of the lights and grills glow golden and there is a sort of gentle hush as people begin to come and go. I walked over to the right and into the writers cafe where there are bookcases filled with works by RudyardKipling , Somerset Maughan and Maxine Kingston who all stayed here at some time. I think I too will just sit here and write in my journal.




I am watching people coming in here now and wonder if they are hotel residents or sightseeing temporaries like me. From the badges etc there does seem to be some kind of conference on here!


I have now walked round to the other side of the square where there are wonderful courtyards and arcades of very exclusive little shops and have come into Ah Tengs Bakery so that I can have breakfast at Raffles. I have ordered English breakfast tea and a bran muffin. Seems appropriate in this very colonial atmosphere.
I am sitting at a window table looking out at the horrific traffic and the wave after wave of people going along. It's funny to sit here in this little snippet of a past of privilege so quiet and slow moving as to be experienced as serene and only to be separated by an arched stone verandah from the frenetic modern city.
Outside again and walking around; the moist heat is getting to me so perhaps I will go back to the hotel for a swim and a cool rest. After our dry, dusty browned summer in Adelaide I feel quite intoxicated by the extent of the lush green and brilliant flowers here.

Making a start

Excelsior Hotel Coleman St Singapore.

It is 6.40am and day is breaking over Singapore. I can see the outlines of the tall buildings on the other side of the park area even although the windows here on the 13th floor of the excelsior tower are on the grubby side.

Two nights and one full day in Singapore. The day adventure was, for me, split into two halves.
Morning 7am saw me out and about. Leaving the Excelsior Hotel I turned right along Coleman St. to the next junction and went into the grounds of the anglican cathedral ( St Andrew's) a very white building with a tall slender spire that I could see from my bedroom window. Most of the square side windows of the cathedral were glassless and their wooden shutters were open giving a very tropical feel to it. Although already the air felt warm and sticky outside, inside here was cool and pleasant at this time of the morning and I was impressed to see several people there quietly reading and praying; both men and women. From their dress and their bags they seemed to be city workers taking time for quiet prayer on their way to their offices etc.

Behind the altar the sun was beginning to light up the long narrow stained glass windows set in the blue walls of the sanctuary.

After spending a short quiet time here myself I came back out and continued on my way to find the Raffles Hotel.